By Jenna Lubinski
Introduction:
The ability to dress in whatever way you please is a privilege that women in America and many other countries possess, without often realizing it. Every day when we wake up, we are faced with a decision on what we are going to wear that expresses our individual identity and who we are as people. A coinciding quote that my grandmother always embedded into my adolescent mind is “you are what you wear.” Which in a sense is true, because what we wear does embody personality, mood, characteristics, etc., especially for women in both modern and past tenses. Clothing, in a sense, took on the form of resistance, and cultivated the femme experience that changes over time. However, some women in different parts of the world, such as the Middle Eastern regions, specifically in the country of Afghanistan, are legally and religiously banned from having the option to choose what they want to wear, and are forced to wear a burqa, where their appearance is covered from head to toe. Their existence must be as discreet as their looks, as legal precedents give women no rights or autonomy. However, this current reality was not always like this for Afghan women, which is something this blog will further inquire.
History:
To understand what happened that drastically changed the female dress attire in Afghanistan, it is imperative to understand the past history on why and how it changed. The mid-20th century (1950s-1970s) was an era of vast cultural translation and modernization within Afghan fashion. Western styles, mixed with traditional Persian and Indian intricate designs, remained a strong presence, especially in cities where modernity was more respected. However, in rural areas these fashion trends were encouraged, but due to the conservativeness of these areas the chador or purdah was still worn.
During the years of 1979-1989, the Soviet Union gained control of Afghanistan, which caused mass urbanization to occur. Regarding fashion, Western style became significantly common, and women were strongly encouraged within society to explore these trends.
However, the Taliban era (1996-2001) in the late 90s took away the opportunity for women to dress how they wanted and incorporate different countries' styles that were advanced earlier in the century. The Taliban, which is a militant group that enforces a strict interpretation of Islamic law, is known for its oppressive rule, particularly towards women. Therefore, the Burqa mandate was enacted, where women were forced to wear the burqa, a full-body covering that hid women’s entire body, including their face, leaving only a small mesh screen for them to see through. This became mandatory for all women in public, effectively eliminating any expression of personal fashion.
After the fall of the Taliban in 2001, Afghanistan experienced a brief period of cultural and political freedom, with fashion once again becoming more diverse. Women regained the freedom to wear Western-style clothing such as skirts, dresses, pants, and blouses, though many continued to wear traditional garments like the chador or headscarf. Modern styles such as jeans, t-shirts, and high heels were adopted by young women, particularly in urban settings. In other words, clothing options for women became vast again and political and religious restrictions were not imposed. Though in 2021, sadly the Taliban returned to power and reversed many of the gains in women’s rights and freedoms, which once again included their ability to express themselves through clothing. The Burqa was heavily mandated, and bright colors and form fitting attire was inexcusably prohibited. Restrictions on clothing were not only enforced, but the Taliban also issued decrees that limited women’s participation in the workforce and public life, further restricting their freedom to dress as they choose, but also their ways to live and breathe.
Reflection:
Therefore, the Afghan woman’s body, mind, and soul are tormented and oppressed along with their autonomy to exist in their environment.
However, one fascinating but sad reality is that conversation pertaining to this topic rarely is articulated in the Western world, because it is not a reality that we experience, thus it is a privilege that we have. Though, the one thing about privileges that people do not realize is that it is a privilege not to care about something because it doesn’t affect you. My thought process on that is that if it can happen somewhere else in the world, then it can easily happen within this country. Hence, women’s rights and equality is an ongoing issue obviously presented in every country, and one self-identifying woman’s problem is another woman’s problem as well, because the fight for equality is not just an individual struggle, but a collective one, where every victory strengthens the foundation for the next.
Overall, clothes are not items that we simply wear but rather, our clothes are interwoven within our identity through the stitches (characteristics) that make us who we are. The restriction of clothes that the women in Afghanistan face is excruciatingly more than just simply you cannot wear a shirt, it is the representation on how their autonomy and personal expression is being stripped away. The restrictions placed on women’s clothing in Afghanistan are not just about fabric or style; they symbolize the erasure of freedom, agency, and identity. What they wear—or are forbidden to wear—becomes an emblem of their silenced voices and restricted existence. Clothing, in this context, becomes a battleground for identity, culture, and the fight for basic human rights, as each piece of cloth serves as both a physical barrier and a psychological one, confining women to roles defined by rigid, patriarchal systems.
What can we do about it:
Here are ways that you can help women in Afghanistan:
Continuously educate yourself on this topic to spark more knowledge and spread information.
Donate to these charities that provide direct aid to women in these areas:
Sign as many petitions as you can:
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